Outside, the hot Daegu sun---Inside, me. Working.

It's Sunday. Normally, I would be studying at Kiung Pook National University, among the many study rooms, learning Korean, or studying on the French DELF/DALF exam that I will take in Spring. Or, perhaps, I would be eating out with Korean and foreign friends alike, enjoying the beautiful weather---as mountains surrounding the Daegu valley traps summer clouds and hot southern air, creating a sauna effect, leaving it's inhabitants gasping for the Fall season. But, alas, I am.. at work.

I often think of what a newspaper story might read in the case of my overworking, particularly on a Sunday--the one, well-known 'vacation day' for everyone this side of Dong Hae (The Sea of Japan):

The Daegu Tribune: "American English teacher, 26 years old,
found exhausted Monday morning while working since Saturday afternoon to complete 80+ progress reports for kids that she only sees 1 and 1/2 hours per a week."

This feel awefully reminscent of the story I read not too long ago in an English version of The International Herald Tribune. This kid (more like an adolescent as he was near 28 years old) who told his folks that he would play 'just a little longer' at an internet cafe--he ends up dead after spending a total of 3 days there, leaving only to go to the bathroom and ordering food to be delivered to the cafe while he played incessantly. Crazy coincidence? Now that's what I call overdoing the videogaming!

Alright, so my story is nothing like the kid who played videogames non-stop. But I have to admit, it gets rather cumbersome doing 80+ progress reports--analyzing the work the kids' have done over the past month, writing down the main objectives for each lesson (for each class, nonetheless!), and then try to remain objective in estimating whether each kid's progress in speaking, motivation, class participation, expression, listening ability and comprehension... have all improved along the lines of "below average-average-very good-excellent" in just 6 short hours of teaching. Is this even possible???

My boss, Susan, told me the other day that I have to be careful what I write about the kids, and what I say about their progress---because the parents will be checking their kid's progress. If the kid hasn't progressed well or their learning trend has fallen to average or below average, then the parents will be breathing down her neck for answers. So then she'll be breathing down mine as well. But how can you accurately estimate how a child has progressed in such a short amount of time---not to mention, 80 different kids ALL doing different material that ranges in level, vocabularly, comprehension and the like?!? It's absolutely baffling to me!

Thus here I am, obediant, willingly stuck here on my vacation Sunday, wondering what the hot Daegu sun feels like verses the flourescent lights and the air conditioner on my back...ah, the life of an English teacher.

Images of GyeongJu: Bulguksa Dabotap, South Korea's most famous Pagoda

Days' end.

The Pagoda stood before me...

And I--like a wild animal; inquizzitive, standing before a man-made structure.

The story--a history unbeknownst to me;
deeper and more rich than the gold of a thousand chest-fold.

The lion, whose forgotten sorrow roars at passersby--yields to warnings of days' past and days to come.

Where the sun, all the while, bids farewell to another journey's end.

(original prose by Chelsea D Pyper c.2005)

Korean Architecture

History-related stuff. There's so much info on Korean architecture, it's almost baffling.

At Gyeoungju's Bulguksa Temple, you'll find lots of low-relief, colorful and symbolic structures supporting building rooves and overhangs, common of the Silla Dynasty (the Era in which the Bulguksa Temple was built). Particularly the yin-yang symbol (or 'Taeguk', which is also the symbol on the Korean Flag) can be seen quite often without searching for it (a means of subconscious intervention, perhaps?)---Well, the Taeguk is one of the most prominent Korean symbols, connecting positive and negative forces, creating a balance and a sense of harmony in the universe, tying in both Confucian and Buddhist principles. You'll also find beautifully painted Lotus flowers which, after perusing a few websites, I come across their special meaning, I quote:

"The lotus flowers, or "Renge," express the universal laws such as Inter-Dependent Existence, Uncertainty of Life, Cause and Effect, and Purity. The lotus grows in muddy waters and blooms beautiful flowers. The flowers and leaves are never stained with the dirty water because the leaves and flowers have a waxy surface that repels water. Human beings are easily stained with the wrong, but the lotus flower keeps its purity.

In fact, without the muddy water, the lotus will never grow. The fact that beautiful flowers bloom only from the muddy water symbolizes the law of Inter Dependent Existence. Similarly, the bad and the good exist together in a society.

Most trees and plants bloom flowers from small seeds. However, the lotus is unique to have its flower and seeds at the same time. People often forget that the beautiful flower is the result of the small seed growing. Just the same, people forget that it may be their bad deeds and actions that may have caused an adverse effect on them, and they blame others for their misfortune. In this manner, the lotus flower reminds us of the law of Cause and Effect.

The life of a lotus flower lasts only for four days. It symbolizes the law of Uncertainty of Life.

Thus, the lotus flower symbolizes the universal laws. The flower also symbolizes truth, purity and beauty that most religions seek. The Buddha Sakyamuni expounded these truths with similes, his previous lives, parables, and his speeches in a scripture, or "Kyo," called "Myoho Renge Kyo."

Digression: Have you ever wondered what Pee-Wee Herman meant when he said in his 1980's "Pee-Wee's Playhouse" daily show? "Mek alek a hi-mek a hiney-ho!" Actually, there were times when I heard "Nam Myoho Renge Kyo" eminating from my tv screne when "Pee-Wee's Playhouse" was on---what a coincidence. I've always wanted to know what that meant when I was a kid, chanting "Nam Myoho Renge Kyo" over and over, watching Pee-Wee spin around his fortune teller in a box and riding his red bike across the world!

Open-aired hallways. Clean, straight edges defining corridors, walkways and harmonic courtyards. This is very typical of the Korean architecture created during the Silla Dynasty.

It was interesting to feel a sense of calm and relaxation while I was at the temple. Walking from one temple to the next, Buddhist believers were prosthrating (bowing), leaving donations of money in designated bins located at the openings of temple doors--once inside, many representations of Buddha, in many forms. I saw one particular temple that housed the Buddha along with his 'deciples'. At one temple, I saw a woman sweeping the dirt around the temples in a Zen pattern. There was no 'dirt' to be picked up.. perhaps, leaves or trails of outside dirt? I had no clue. I saw yet another woman doing the same thing at another temple, only this time, 'cleaning' the dirt with a water hose. Again, I found this strange.

I still feel much of an outsider here. Alas, I was the only foreigner within a 300 meter radius around me. But I feel more of an objective learner to this strange and fascinating culture. Wow...and to think that I have taken so many pictures---of not only my trip to Gyeoungju on Korea's Independence Day (August 15th), but of Mt. Gatbawi, my hometown (Seobyundong) and downtown Daegu. And I have yet so many places to travel here. I'll have a hard time not wanting to fill up pages and pages of observations, historical info and tid-bits of information found along my travels...

Unless of course you're about to leave Bulguksa Temple (like I was...) and you come across a Buddhist Monk walking swiftly, tenderly past you, with admiration about him, and a clean-pounce in his step..........scrambling quickly to grab my camera, I swung around and snapped this shot of him walking up the stairs to the upper courtyard. There was nothing but silence, and my lungs grasping for air in a way that wouldn't distrupt this beautiful moment.

One of life's little pleasures; fascinating!

Last minute, my director, and.. thank God it's Friday!

I really admire my director. She has a good heart, and she is always busy and very willing to help out her teachers. But I'm learning a few things about her.

I've always been familiar with the term 'waiting until the last minute' until now. Of course, *I* always did, wait until the last minute, that is-----to finish college papers, leave for a rendez-vous to be on time.. yeah, the story of my life. And I've never been much of a complainer, but more of a sounding board for my friends, the complainees. But my director, Susan, loves to wait until the last minute!

I'm remembering back to a Saturday when all of my school got together for a day for me supposedly to teach English, a fun day to challenge the kids, to know more where they stood in the wave of understanding English, and for the other teachers to see how I taught and for them to give me advice on teaching. This included suggestions from Susan on what other methods I could use to help facilitate better teaching on my part.

The day was really fun---and not as difficult as I thought---plus I got paid for the 3 hours that I worked. But I wasn't given advice. In fact, I wasn't even given directions on what to do until the very last minute.

I wasn't given ideas on how to teach better, either. And I felt a bit in the dark on what exactly I was doing until the very moment when the games began and we started playing the 'guess-this-word' game that Susan directed us to play. So did it mean that I did well, and I didn't need advice on teaching? Or they couldn't understand me well enough to make a judgement call? How can you judge a teacher on the basis of a 'guess-the-word' game? It's hard to tell. I felt sketchy, like everything was not clear. And totally last minute.

In any event, today is Friday. My school has hired two new teachers! Moon (english name Anna) who will replace Angelina, her cousin actually, because Angelina is leaving to join her husband-to-be in Canada; and Seungbo (english name David), my good friend, who'll replace Kelly---who's leaving to start her own school.

So you can imagine, it's been hectic lately, and everything has been up in the air. Sort of, yeah... last minute. Moon was hired just a hair over a week ago, Seungbo was hired like, Thursday. Everyone finally got their class schedules today--as it was both training/observation day for the new hirees and the 'last working day' for the girls who are leaving. The new schedule will begin next week, and that means (Halleluia!) I've got at LEAST 30 minutes break a day---some close to 2 hours break, until a new class begins (which no one knows anything about yet, thank God!).

The one hour prep period before classes begin is actually more of a 'social hour.' It doesn't do much to help me prepare unless I'm already set on what I'll be teaching for the day, and I just have a few copies to make or anything left to finish organizing. Heck, on some days that I have no break at ALL, I use that hour for eating lunch before the day begins!

Anyway, onwards to other things: Angelina is moving this weekend. I'm sad because she lives right next to me, and she's been a great friend, helping me out when I first arrived in Korea. She took me to restaurants, showed me 시내 (downtown) and the nightlife to be had there, with her cousin Moon (see my Korean Experience photos) and the other people that I have met along the way. But I have faith she'll be back---afterall, I took her fiance Michael's teaching spot. When the time comes, Angelina will return with her new Husband, and they'll BOTH teach again at JCEI.

On updating: Wow, I've taken SO MANY pictures. Traveling to GyeoungJu to check out the old Buddhist temples last Monday (Korean Independence Day and holiday!), including many photos that I've taken along the way--my town (seobyundong), including many, many Korean foods. Now I just need to buckle down and post more!

Next Posting Preview: GyeongJu. Wow, awesome, historically-filled place. Seungbo and I visited the Bulgulksa Temple laiden with several Buddhist temples that age back to the Silla Dynasty between 57 bc and 935 ad (..I did my homework, but there's SO much more to see!)

The little things you notice...

While I'm on the thought of the little things that one notices in another country besides their own, like, say for example, the Korean guys checking themselves out while they pump iron/exercise at the Gym I recently subscribed to. I find it the funniest thing in the world! Back home, if a guy even thought to admire himself in a mirror in the presence of someone else, they would be considered vain. Not here, however.

My gym is called Sky Health Club and it's truly is cool. It's a triple level gym located on the 6th floor of a building, fairly close to the KiungPook National University that I visit often. Plenty of weights, cardio machines, and separate changing/bathroom rooms for the sexes---including a sauna and bath to use after working out. It runs nearly w50,000 per month, but since I go to work out everyday---I've opted to pay the w5,000 extra per month to use their clothes (shirt, shorts and endless towel usuage). It's pretty neat. I figured why not--since I sweat so much when I work out, it would cost me at LEAST that much washing my workout clothes everyday!

Another little thing I've noticed here in Korea, is how the women wash themselves in the shower rooms. Toilettes are separated from the changing room, which are separated from the actual bathing area (or shower room)--which resembles quite often more like a Spa than a gym shower room. Crazy. Oh, and thank GOD the toilettes are Western, sit-down style. No one told me you squat on a hole in the floor when you need a bathroom from a restaurant or a public venue (library, etc.) Now that is crazy. So, back to bathing.

The women actually sit down when they take a shower---hence the many little chairs that are to be found with knee-level sinks, and showerheads. It's odd to me. I tried sitting down to bath after working out once, and I nearly slipped trying to soap up. So I resorted to the usual Western way of standing while bathing.

Interestingly enough, I'm usually the only white American to be found within a 500 meter eye shot around me--so I've gotten used to the quick glances and body comparisons from females at my gym or the local swimming pool where I swim occasionally. I find it rather strange, too, that I'm usually the only female working with the weights, too. There's supposedly a 'woman's floor' and a 'men's floor'---with weight machines and specific weights that correspond to gender. But more often than not, I find myself on the 'men's floor' (not that it's mandatory that the floor I spend the most time on is 'men only', etc. it just means that there is a higher concentration of men than there are women on that floor.) In any event, no female uses the free weights--except me. So I often get a few looks, and quizzacle glances. In fact, just last week, another Korean guy working out asked me, "Are you going to use this?" (the machine being a controlled dead-lift with various weights option, othewise the squat machine) "Of course, I said. Are you using it?"

"Why are you using this machine? What will you do?" he sort of snapped at me, wondering why in God's name would a female use this machine. I simply stated that I wanted to concentrate muscle strengthening to my calves, quads and shoulders, while improving my core with correct postering (I am familiar with the machine, so to me, it's not an issue that I would dare to 'build muscle' while so many Korean women shy away from the very thought!) Needless to say, he smiled and went on his way. "We can use this machine together." Explanation given, well-recieved.
I guess that's how an American foreigner integrates themselves into the health club scene, without too much violation to the standard rule!

More little statues carved from rock from the KiungPook National University Campus: I love the place!

What do they mean? Haven't a clue, only that this little garden is an icon for the campus, and it's quite pleasurable to sit around and stare at them. Since I can only read Korean, but at this point don't know what the Korean means that I read---I've understood thus far that these statues resemble the indigenous people that lived there on campus, way back when, in ancient times. Just behind the length of the statues is a huge, monolithic rock that represents the 'gateway' to the old world. Rather interesting. I've even made faces at these figurine statues while walking past, hoping they might respond--like a little child who doesn't understand that these rocks are not people. Hmm. I amuse myself. As expected, these rock statues didn't smile back.

Aimless wanderer, spiritual uplifting, and...Confucianism??

I recently went websurfing (shouldn't websurfing be considered a pasttime, like shopping, or going to the beach in this day and age?) Anyhow, I came across this great quote that sums a good part of my reasoning for travel, adventure and solace in worldly experiences that stretch my mind, my conscience, and my soul... here goes.

Aimless Wanderer

"When we have no real home, we're like an aimless wanderer out on the road, going this way for a while and then that way, stopping for a while and then setting off again. Until we return to our real home, whatever we do we feel ill at ease, just like somebody who's left his village to go on a journey. Only when he gets home again can he really relax and be comfortable.

Nowhere in the world is any real peace to be found. That's the nature of the world. Look within yourself and find it there instead..... we're still homeless like the aimless wanderer."
(Taken from http://www.abhayagiri.org/ the website of the Abhayagiri Buddhist Monestary located in California, USA.)

As a part of my experience hiking up Mt. Gatbawi, traveling around Daegu, and feeling a strange sense of spiritual uplifting over the course of the past week, I've felt the need to inquire not only about my own religion that I have long since subscribed to, but to understand other religions as well (like Buddhism, for example), and how it affects the way people act, think and just live from day to day.

It's hard to describe the feeling of accomplishment that one gains after tackling a mountain, sort-to-speak. It's difficult on one hand to move suddenly into a country you know nothing about (like I have!); but it takes much more than that to sit down, research that mountain, and realize how to integrate yourself into it and actually become a part of it.

I think I've tasted this confucian culture in more ways than one (though many would contend that Confuciansim in Korean society is no longer taught). Take for example, the simple act of giving and recieving in Korea. Now, unless you actually paid attention, or studied the Korean culture, you wouldn't notice the 'second hand' that accompanies the one that gives or recieves as a sign of respect. Here's an example that hits home; the students I teach.

When I request my students to give me their papers after a test, they each give their papers to me with both hands, or, whereas one hand gives, and the other accomplies---like holding the wrist, or slightly touching the forearm. This gesture is also included with a slight, but slow bow. I am their teacher, and Korean kids are taught to be respectful to others' of authority, such as myself, or an elder family member, friend, or even sometimes a stranger. Whomever the person may be, this actually transcended from Confucian thought, turned into local customs, as indicated by South Korea Travel Guide:

"Koreans are expected to follow the wishes of their elders. Age is very much respected. Married people do hold slightly more respect than single people. When extending a greeting or saying "thank you," the person holding a more junior position within society bows lower than his or her senior counterpart."

This was all very strange to me, until I started reading more into Korean society and culture. I needed to understand why my students remained so quiet in class, why they hardly ever spoke a word directly to me, and why they responded nearly 180 degrees opposite of what I had expected of them at their level in class. Preparing for my daily conversation class is nuts! But, it remains very interesting indeed. More info on just how my students respond to my American/Creative/Free-thinking teaching method in the next post!

Look to these links for more info on Confucianism & Korea:
1. Confuciansim in Korea
2. Korean Moral Philosophy

Reflection on Mt. Gatbawi

Monday. It's hard getting back to reality. I like vacations, but if they're too long, it's even more difficult getting back to work. I have to say that the most interesting time I had was hiking up Mt. Gatbawi on Sunday, July 31st..

I remember my enthusiasm when I finally reached the top, nearly 8:20 pm and already dark, yet there were so many people there---it almost felt as if it were daytime.

"Yak-Sah-Yourae-Buh" (Medicine Buddha) was stuck in my head for the last 20 minutes of the uphill stair climb, as a prerecorded monk singing to Buddha played in the background as indication that the louder the song, the closer you were to the top.

I was the only white girl there, and yet I was like everyone else; some inspired, some curious, others faithful followers making their weekly---or sometimes daily trek--up to see the great Buddha carved out of rock.

And it was amazing to watch the people bowing incessantly on a mat; some holding a string of wooden beads, others a book or a special cloth. The Buddha statue had been carved out of this mammoth rock thousands of years ago. It's especially hard to imagine carving such a formation when there weren't that many tools available at the time.


I know very little about Buddhism, but the very sight of seeing people bow, lighting yet more candles after already a zillion had been lit, made me, well, want to research this religion. Even when I visited one of the temples while going up (before the real stair climbing part). I was fascinated to see a Buddhist monk singing and hitting his drum. The prayer was so mournful, yet it was calm and uplifting in the same sense. It was the first time I had seen a monk in the flesh.

The only time I had ever seen a Buddhist monk was on National Geographic, years and years ago, watching probably some documentary on the Buddhist religion and how it was practiced by millions of people around the world, and how it differenciated from other religions.

I didn't see the monk's face, but his presence seemed calm and collected. For 20 minutes, I sat there and listened to him, singing over and over again, beating his drum. People came, people bowed, and people left. It was awe inspiring. And it was uplifting, and a gentle reminder to acknowledge the little, simple things in life. No wonder Buddhist monks are known for having excellent health. They spend long hours humming, singing and praising to focus the mind. Like Yi Hwang--the gentleman on the front of the 1,000W bill--the famous neo-Confucian scholar/philosopher who spent hours a day throwing bamboo darts into vases to focus his mind. Incredible discipline these people have.

It was quite a sight to see. More details to come on my adventures on vacation!

Update in photos

Pic 1: The famous Buddha atop Mt. Gatbawi, with the 1,000's of electrically lit candles memorializing people in the name of the Medicine Buddha (Yak-Sah-Yorae-Buh)

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I haven't updated in over a week. Amazing how time flies. We had a great vacation which extended from July 29th to August 3rd--then it was back to work for only two days before the weekend came again. I needed this vacation, though, seriously. Even though I originally wanted to wait until I was more familiar with Daegu, not wanting to be stuck in my apartment with nothing to do for vacation but mope because I felt isolated....No, this vacation I had a blast, and I learned more than I thought I could in just a week's time.

Not only did I figure out the bus systems where I live in Seobyundong and 대 구 (Daegu) in general, but I also trekked up to Mt. Gatbawi; learned the Korean Alphabet inside and out; became familiar with Kiungbuk National University, and all the local hangouts; found a healthclub and started working out daily; plus, I renewed my enthusiam and found the spiritual awaking that I needed to finally find my niche here.

Just a short blog tonight though, and a few photos to this update. I'll get into the details of my vacation over the course of the next few days. Until then, I leave you with a photo overview of my vacation....
Getting ready to ascend Mt. Gatbawi, pointing to the 2.0KM hike up to see Yak-Sah-Yoreh-Bu (Medicine Buddha). It was an awesome, but difficult hike (contrary to many blogs that I've read.. it's NOT EASY folks!) Witnessed a real Buddhist monk singing, visiting several temples, slowly making the way up some 1500 'stairs' (more like rocks) with shakey legs to witness many Buddhism believers prosthrating/praying in front of the Buddha.. and then to descend and praise God that I made it down the mountain in the dark!

Checking out KiungBuk National University--which is a beautiful campus, by the way...learning they have an Alliance Francaise (which means I can take classes there to prep for the DALF!)...eating cheap college-student priced foods near campus, checking out the local student hang-outs, discovering empty hall-ways that I can go and study in, and feeling in general like a student again..
Eating DELICIOUS Korean foods...including the absolutely mouth-watering ice/ice cream/corn flakes/candy snack you can buy at the Lotteria fast-food restaurant, or free (like the one I got in the picture) when you go to a pub and buy drinks. Definitely a delicious dessert!

...and particularly, like learning to cook raw Pork during your meal, accompanied by the amazing millenia of side-dishes you recieve.. ie. potatoes, macaroni, salad, soup, cocoon (which I don't care for--larva cocoon, that is!), green salad and mint leaves to eat with the cooked meat. This entree is definitely my favorite.

Discovering my town inside and out.. from daytime to nighttime.. sunrise to sunset--I'm starting to feel a part of this little country, and not just a foreigner living on the outside.

Last.. having a blast teaching the cutest children in the world (Charles, Amy, Jennie and I, elementary-beginning class). And, of course, being just one of the kids myself!


Inspiring quote: "Veni, Vidi, Vici." {I came, I saw, I conqured} - Gaius Julious Caesar